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	<title>Hardwood Flooring Ontario, Canada &#124; Michael&#039;s Flooring</title>
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	<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca</link>
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		<title>BIG BOX,BIG MYTH?</title>
		<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/big-boxbig-myth/</link>
		<comments>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/big-boxbig-myth/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 21:21:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Michaels Flooring</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/?p=309</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Are you ready for the flooring myth busters to swing into action? Many consumers feel that the larger big box stores can deliver the goods, less expensive, faster, better and with more variety and selection, than smaller independent, stand alone flooring stores.  I am here to tell you as a part owner of said smaller [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you ready for the flooring myth busters to swing into action?</p>
<p>Many consumers feel that the larger big box stores can deliver the goods, less expensive, faster, better and with more variety and selection, than smaller independent, stand alone flooring stores.  I am here to tell you as a part owner of said smaller institution in my opinion, humble as it may be, we can&#8217;t be beat.</p>
<p>Are you ready? Lets tackle the issues in the order I have stated them.</p>
<p><strong>Less expensive, I don&#8217;t think so.</strong></p>
<p>Over the years, with mergers, and closings etc., especially in Canada, we have had to turn to the U.S. market more and more, very few Flooring products are manufactured in this country any more. Everything from Carpet, to Laminates and Hardwoods, Ceramic tiles and Vinyl flooring wind up on our door step from another country. In short, most of us end up purchasing from the same manufacturer/distributor pool. Generally,  how much, or how little we purchase from a particular supplier is reflected in what we pay for materials.  In a lot of instances smaller independent stores pay the same or less for product than big box stores, which is why it is extremely important to price apples to apples when comparison shopping. Sometimes the names have been changed to protect the innocent, so simply bring us a sample and more than likely we know what the product is or we can match it to one of our samples. As well, some of the larger Big box type stores have items manufactured specifically for them, usually we can find a close match or a reasonable alternative. It&#8217;s also extremely important to find our where the products are manufactured. Keep in mind also that when pricing an installed product, its the bottom line that counts.</p>
<p><strong>Faster, could be a tie.</strong></p>
<p>As I stated above, we all mostly purchase from the same supplier pool, and bigger doesn&#8217;t mean they get it any faster. If its back ordered for us, its back ordered for them. We all stock some items, which are specific to location etc., that can be had on the spot, but unless you plan to install something yourself, by the time the job is measured, priced and signed and sealed, the delivery is usually when you want it.</p>
<p><strong>More variety, not a chance.</strong></p>
<p>At Michael&#8217;s Flooring we have almost 5000 square feet devoted to flooring of every description, Hardwoods, Laminates, Ceramics, Corks, Vinyls, specialty commercial and on and on. If by chance we don&#8217;t have it, we try and source it for you.</p>
<p><strong>Better, try us on for size.</strong></p>
<p>We&#8217;ll be happy to supply references on any of the type of flooring installations you require, as should most independent flooring stores. Ask around, find out the word on the street.  Our installers are seasoned veterans. Our estimaters have years of experience in making sure your job is fine tuned to suit you, and OUR ESTIMATES ARE FREE.</p>
<p>So you be the judge, it&#8217;s always better to get more than one price anyway. Let the smaller independents prove their worth to you, and find out if it&#8217;s Big box or Big Myth.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>TILE &#8220;Ceramic or Porcelain&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/tile-ceramic-or-porcelain/</link>
		<comments>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/tile-ceramic-or-porcelain/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:42:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Michaels Flooring</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ceramic Tile]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/?p=211</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;I&#8217;m thinking of changing  my Kitchen, Entry and Bathroom floors, do I use Ceramic or Porcelain tiles?&#8221; &#8220;My friends advise me that Ceramic tiles will chip and crack, and Porcelain will not?&#8221; Some of the things customers ask of us when the process of deciding to purchase new flooring for Kitchens, Bathrooms, and Entries begins.  First [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;I&#8217;m thinking of changing  my Kitchen, Entry and Bathroom floors, do I use Ceramic or Porcelain tiles?&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;My friends advise me that Ceramic tiles will chip and crack, and Porcelain will not?&#8221;</p>
<p>Some of the things customers ask of us when the process of deciding to purchase new flooring for Kitchens, Bathrooms, and Entries begins.  First though, we need to know the difference between, Ceramic and Porcelain tiles.</p>
<p>Ceramic tiles are generally made from a clay base or a mixture of clay with other materials added, finished with a hard glaze which carries the colour and pattern,  they are then Kiln fired, much the same as you would fire a coffee cup or a vase at a ceramic class.  The clay is usually red or white.  My experience has been, the redder the clay base the less expensive and less durable the tile, this is only my experience.  I have found that generally the greyer the bisque(or clay) the more durable the tiles.  These tiles can be used on both the floor and wall.  If you chip them, you will usually see the clay bisque, as the colour will come off with the chipped glaze.</p>
<p>Ceramic tiles are generally a softer product, that cuts easier, and has a higher water absorbtion rate, and should not be used outside, or in conditions that may freeze.</p>
<p>Porcelain tiles are generally made by what is known as the dust pressed method from porcelain clay.  This results in a denser tile, impervious, fine grained and generally smooth.</p>
<p>Porcelain tiles can be crafted to look more like natural stones, and come glazed or unglazed, have a lower water absorbtion rate and are extremely durable.  Some Porcelain tiles are classed as frost proof, with a water absorbtion rate of less than o.5%.  These can be used  outdoors on porches, walkways, sunrooms etc., and unglazed are recommended.</p>
<p>Most consumers are under the impression that Porcelain tiles have the colour all the way through so that if they chip, you cannot tell.  This is only true in what we call a full body Porcelain tile, which are generally more expensive than regular Porcelain tiles.</p>
<p>Ceramic tiles can contain slightly larger or slightly smaller tiles in each run, which may mean a slighter larger grout line than you may wish.  This is because during the firing, some tiles contain more mositure than others and dry differently. I have found that in general Porcelain tiles are more consistant in size.</p>
<p>So which is it, Ceramic or Porcelain?  It&#8217;s really up to you.  Ceramic is generally less expensive, and you may not like the look of Porcelain.</p>
<p>Porcelain tiles seem to me to be more varied, and some have that natural stone look without the expense and maintainence.</p>
<p>Remember though,  it&#8217;s all in the installation(something we&#8217;ll talk about another day) and other than outdoors, or in a commercial application, it really shouldn&#8217;t matter which tile you choose.</p>
<p>At Michael&#8217;s Carpet &amp; Flooring we have a great selection of tiles to suit any need and fit into any budget.</p>
<p>Happy decorating.</p>
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		<title>Engineered or Solid &#8220;Live&#8221; Hardwood</title>
		<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/engineered-or-solid-live-hardwood/</link>
		<comments>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/engineered-or-solid-live-hardwood/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Aug 2011 12:35:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Michaels Flooring</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardwood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/?p=205</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Of all the flooring choices you may make for your home, Hardwood and Ceramic will cause you the most financial pain.  The main expense for Ceramic is in the labour and preparation, for Hardwood its all three areas, materials, labour and preparation. ( We&#8217;ll do Ceramic another day.)  So if your going to pay the price [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Of all the flooring choices you may make for your home, Hardwood and Ceramic will cause you the most financial pain.  The main expense for Ceramic is in the labour and preparation, for Hardwood its all three areas, materials, labour and preparation. ( We&#8217;ll do Ceramic another day.)  So if your going to pay the price it ought to be worth it.</p>
<p>So what do you choose,  Solid Hardwood or Engineered?</p>
<p>The differences are easy to spot.  Solid is usually 3/4&#8243; thick by any number of widths, and engineered has a plywood laminated type core, with a real wood veneer.(a thin application of real wood)</p>
<p>Consumers usually selected solid Hardwood bewcause it looks heavier and more sturdy, and the thought was you could sand it many many times.  Not true.  Live or solid wood reacts to environmental changes more, heat, humidity cold etc., and you can usually get two sandings out of it.  Engineered wood should not be sanded in my opinion(even though the manufacturer says it can at least once)because experience has taught us you can only lightly sand it to freshen it up, and you take too much of the veneer off if you try a heavy sanding.</p>
<p>Solid Hardwood was also selected in a number of cases because the 3/4&#8243; height was critical to matching up exactly with ceramic installations.  As well it is my experience engineered woods are generally more free of knots etc. than some solid woods.</p>
<p>Engineered woods are necessary over concrete, as they can be glued directly down, or floated(the tongues and grooves glued together much like laminate.)</p>
<p>Engineered woods used to only come 3/8&#8243; thick and were generally less expensive comparing grade to grade.  Now engineered woods are not only 3/8&#8243; thick, but 1/2&#8243; and 3/4&#8243; and in some instances can be more expensive that solid woods.  So matching up to other floor finishes is easy.</p>
<p>So again, which do you choose, solid Hardwood or engineered?</p>
<p>It&#8217;s a matter of personal preference lifestyle,  and site conditions.  If you simply like the look of the engineered over solid, or one price is better than another, that&#8217;s one choice.  If your installation is on grade or on concrete, then engineered is your choice.  If you don&#8217;t like to monitor humidity levels as much, leave your home for extended periods, or live in a humidty prone area, then my money is on engineered.</p>
<p>Either way, make sure you explain to your flooring sales person all of the conditions that prevail in your home, and what your expectations are.</p>
<p>At Michael&#8217;s Flooring we have a complete range of all types of Hardwoods, solid or engineered.</p>
<p>Happy decorating.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>How often and how should I clean my Carpet?</title>
		<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/how-often-and-how-should-i-clean-my-carpet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/how-often-and-how-should-i-clean-my-carpet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 May 2011 14:50:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Michaels Flooring</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Carpet]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/?p=162</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In the olden days, 70’s and early 80’ we used to tell our customers if the Carpet didn’t look dirty don’t get it cleaned.  How that has changed over the years. Now Manufacturers are not suggesting, but insisting, a good cleaning every 18 months to two years, or any warranty might be void. The theory [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the olden days, 70’s and early 80’ we used to tell our customers if the Carpet didn’t look dirty don’t get it cleaned.  How that has changed over the years. Now Manufacturers are not suggesting, but insisting, a good cleaning every 18 months to two years, or any warranty might be void.</p>
<p>The theory used to be if you cleaned your Carpet, you would remove any of the Stain resisting treatments i.e.; <strong>scotch guard, stain release, and stain master</strong>.  This is not the case.  Carpet is fabric, you wouldn’t wear a shirt for 5 years without washing it, and the same goes for Carpet.</p>
<h2>
So how do you clean your Carpet?</h2>
<p>First and foremost choose the method.  You can shampoo, steam, Roto static, dry clean etc. Second, choose the cleaner, who should be reputable, bondable, insured and able to supply you with references if requested.  The company you choose should visit your home, and decide the best method in accordance with manufacturer’s specifications. (Supplied by your Carpet Retailer)</p>
<p>I prefer deep steam extraction, using a truck mounted cleaning system.  </p>
<p>In between cleanings, regular vacuuming and spot cleaning should keep your investment looking new for a long time to come. </p>
<p>Remember, before you try any spot cleaners; use a scrap of left over Carpet, or the back of a closet as a test area, to make sure you do not permanently discolour your Carpet.</p>
<p>With proper maintenance all warrantees will be in effect and you should be able to enjoy your Carpet purchase for many years.</p>
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		<title>OMG my hardwood is gapping, Bad job or maybe it’s just too dry</title>
		<link>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/hardwood-flooring-facts-brian%e2%80%99s-blog/</link>
		<comments>http://www.michaelsflooring.ca/hardwood-flooring-facts-brian%e2%80%99s-blog/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Apr 2011 10:07:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardwood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://michaelsflooring.ca/?p=84</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[OMG my hardwood is gapping&#8230;&#8230;. Bad job or maybe it’s just too dry. Generally there are no hard and fast rules when Hardwood Gaps or moves apart. Just as there are no hard and fast rules as to how much of a gap is too much. Sometimes you can slip a business card in a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OMG my hardwood is gapping&#8230;&#8230;. Bad job or maybe it’s just too dry.</p>
<p>
 Generally there are no hard and fast rules when Hardwood Gaps or moves apart.  Just as there are no hard and fast rules as to how much of a gap is too much.  Sometimes you can slip a business card in a gap, other times a credit card or a Looney, there are no industry standards so consumers often blame the installer, when it’s not an installation problem at all, but something as simple as synchronising your home environment with your new floors.   Solid Hardwood moves, mainly due to the amount of humidity in a home.  Too much, it swells, too little and it moves apart. It’s usually a summer winter thing.  Hardwood Manufacturers suggest relative humidity in your home should be around 50 to 55 percent all year round so buy yourself a humidistat and monitor it.  You may even have to buy a humidifier for the winter, and a dehumidifier for summer, central air is a must.  It takes hard work to maintain Hardwood. If you like the look of real Hardwood without as much maintenance then maybe engineered wood is for you, but that’s for next time.   You can find a selection of great Hardwoods and other flooring suggestions,  at our Michaels Flooring web site www.michaelsflooring.ca</p>
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